Ring My Belle
There's no je ne sais quoi about it. There are loads of good reasons to fall in love with Canada's exotic eastern beauty. So slip into something more comfortable and treat yourself - and maybe even a loved one - to these top Gallic delights.
ARRIVE IN STYLE
Porter Airlines flies skiers from the Toronto City Centre Airport to Quebec
City, making it easy to book a naughty white weekend. Flights operate every weekend on
Friday, Saturday and twice on Sunday. Special Christmas schedules, including everyday flights
from December 17 to January 7, are also part of the program. If you’re in the mood for a more
leisurely approach, take the train from the Maritimes or Upper Canada. VIA Rail
includes a first-class meal, WiFi and open bar, and it’s Easterly overnight service from Halifax
will gently rock you to sleep under crisp white sheets dreaming of arriving to fresh white
powder after tracing the wild windswept shore of the St. Lawrence.
CUDDLE UP IN OPULENCE
Splendid isolation abounds in PQ. From rustic
romantic cabins to castle hotels, wherever you
choose to ski you’ll be able to bed down in
comfort. The Hotel Quintessence is the luxury
boutique hotel at Tremblant, leaving the world
of taupe-carpeted condos in the dust. The
hotel’s 30 suites overlook Lac Tremblant and
feature king-size beds, wood-burning fi replaces
and, for the ultimate in haute Canadiana, a
real live firewood concierge. In Quebec City,
where you can stay to ski Stoneham, Mont-
Sainte-Anne and Le Massif, Auberge Saint
Antoine is an archaeological masterpiece—
an all-luxury hotel that’s part museum built
on the grounds of a 17th-century cannon
battery. Hundreds of artifacts are displayed
throughout, and a panorama of the icy St.
Lawrence bubbles beneath your balcony.
Not far from Le Massif, the Fairmont Manoir
Richelieu perches on a rocky outcropping
above the water. It’s a mix of country charm
and sophistication, complete with allseason
saltwater indoor and outdoor pools.
GET LOOSE
Pamper yourself with the refreshingly Scando
approach to communal bathing at Tremblant’s
Le Scandinave. The ritual of cold, warm and
hot baths and wet and dry saunas is more than
just another way to get clean—it’s a bath
for the soul. Finish with a Swedish massage
(individual or duo), a hot stone massage or a
Thai yoga version that has both you and the
masseuse pushing, pulling and crossing the
energy lines. Le Scandinave
DO THE LOCAL APRÈS-SKI TOUR
Quebec winemakers are hard on the heels of
Niagara and the Okanagan. The Wine Route
links 11 vineyards in Brome-Missisquoi in
the Eastern Townships—home to Owl’s Head,
Orford, Sutton and Bromont. In addition
to whites, reds and rosés, these vineyards
produce a range of aperitifs, liqueurs and ice
cider. Needless to say, the cold climate is
ideal for ice wines and late-harvest wines.
MANGE BIEN
Organic meat and produce, local beer,
ciders and wines, and about a million
varieties of cheese. Lobster caught in the
Îles de la Madeleine, farmed game, apples,
blueberries and, bien sur, lots of maple-
fl avoured everything. But it’s not all tourtière
and baked beans: think foie gras, magret
de canard and crème brûlée. Top regional
products and history give Quebec its own
cuisine so...to the bistro, Batman. From our
short version of a very long list try Auberge
Saint-Antoine Panache, with the feel of a
secret attic and flickering candles, cuisine
Québécoise revisitée; you can also eat from
a simple menu in the cozy bar. Le Feu Follet
at the base of Stoneham, whose signature
dish of poutine (classic Quebecois stodge)
is elevated by the addition of foie gras and
tomme de chevre. Ten minutes from St-
Sauveur in Ste-Adele, L’Eau à la Bouche is
a Relais et Châteaux treasure. Overlook the
fl oodlit slopes of Bromont at Les Quatre
Canards in Chateau Bromont. At the five-star
Hovey Manor, about a 30 minute-drive from
Mont Orford, the lakeside setting is matched
by its innovative Quebecois cuisine, using
local and regional products. Au 51 near Le
Massif does fi ne regional cuisine from Chef
Patric Fregni. Bon appétit.
GO WILD
With dogsledding right at the base of many Quebec
resorts like Mont-Sainte-Anne, you can admire
dozens of Alaskan dogs howling for a chance to
pull. Les Secrets Nordiques runs dogsledding tours
through pristine woods for a few hours or even a
few days. Sixty-five four-legged race machines are at
the ready to give you a true Quebecois experience.
THE COLOURS OF QUEBEC
The village of Baie-Saint-Paul, a 15-minute drive
from Le Massif, is a funky artists’ haven of galleries,
cafés, artisan food shops and unblemished
Quebecois wooden farmhouse architecture.
FEEL THE FÊTE
Every Canadian should do Carnaval
de Québec at least once. The largest
winter carnival in the world has been
laughing in the face of sub-zero
sensitivities since the habitants of
New France created a rowdy tradition
of getting together for one last eat,
drink and be merry binge before the
doldrums of Lent. There’s no setting
more atmospheric than the old walled
city of Quebec—the perfect backdrop
for the ultimate après to be held
January 30 to February 15, 2009.