Super 7
All epic descents take hold of our collective psyches - some become "classics".
by KEVIN HJERTAAS
There are probably a thousand great off-piste runs in Western Canada. These are the
runs that skiers dream about, spend the off-season aspiring to and remember
longer than any other. Here’s the Hjertaas list of a few of those runs that have
earned “classic” status. Some are easy to get to, others are extra challenging, but all the runs
on this list offer unique ski experiences and are worthy of a pilgrimage. So pack up your gear
and go find them. Powder and memories will be your reward.
It should go without saying that off-piste descents, whether they’re in the remote
backcountry or just a hike beyond a ski area’s access gates, have a whole laundry list of
hazards. It is always your responsibility to carry the right gear and even more importantly,
have the knowledge and experience necessary to travel safely in these areas. To keep the
inexperienced or less dedicated from getting in over their heads, we’ve been purposefully vague about some of the route finding. Go searching with a guide or an experienced local
and we’re sure you’ll find what you’re looking for, hopefully at the same pace as your
mountain knowledge and experience grows.
MOUNT ROBERTS
LOCATION: Red Mountain, Rossland, B.C.
DETAILS: There’s a cat road from Badger run
that locals and experienced visitors can use
to skate out to the bottom of the climb. Then
it’s a 40-minute skin to the peak, which is the
best way to get up even though some people
bootpack or post-hole their way up through
Red’s infamous snowfall. A left-hand traverse
near the bottom of the face brings you back
to the Paradise chairlift, approximately 360
vertical metres down. Mount Roberts is the
main venue for the Canadian Freeskiing Open.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: Even though it
skis like an extension
photo:ERIC KALACIS
of the resort, Mount
Roberts is true backcountry terrain with no
dedicated avalanche control or ski patrol.
The northeast aspect and glades on Roberts
create a perfect powder trap and the solid
hike keeps the number of skiers down, so if
you’re hunting for fresh tracks and you have
the experience, head here. Local ripper Peter
Velisek won the Canadian Freeskiing Open in
2005 on this peak and he knows every inch of
the face. “There’s a real variability of terrain
on Roberts. There are very technical lines
and fast smooth lines. Or you can just ski the
main chute as a powder run—it skis great
as just a powder run.” It’s this versatility
that makes Roberts the perfect venue for the
Canadian Freeskiing Open, but it’s the length
of the run that makes it a true classic. “You’re
puffing at the bottom. You definitely have to
be fit.”
GEAR: Avalanche beacon, probe and shovel;
skins and touring bindings a thankful plus,
but not absolutely necessary.
LEVEL OF COMMITMENT: Though it
drains back toward the resort, Roberts is
backcountry skiing with all the usual risks and
responsibilities associated with it.
SUPER BOWL
LOCATION: Kicking Horse Mountain Resort,
Golden, B.C.
DETAILS: It’s a 15-minute hike off the
top of the gondola—there’s usually a welltrodden
bootpack to welcome you. Climb to
the 2,401-metre peak and do not traverse
the south-facing avalanche slope. From the
top, all lines naturally drain back down to the
resort base area.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: Tim Grey, local skier
and the man behind Biglines.com is a definite
fan. “I love Super Bowl,” says Grey. “You can
see it from town but still get fresh tracks the
day after a storm. You can work all day and
go up there for one late-day run. It’s just
a two-and-a-half-hour lap from my house.” But it isn’t just easy access that makes Super
Bowl a classic. It’s a fantastic run no matter
what you like to ski. “It fits every type of
backcountry enthusiast. There are big lines,
big hucks, rollers and tree skiing, and it all
feeds back to the lift.” The skiing is just one
part of the Super Bowl experience. Sitting on
top you can soak in the panoramic vista of
big peaks of the Rockies, the Selkirks and the
Purcells as well as look down to the town of
Golden and the Kicking Horse River. If you
are still not convinced, check out Tim’s video
by searching YouTube: “The Real Super Bowl
Commercial.”
GEAR: Avalanche beacon, probe, shovel— and definitely your camera.
LEVEL OF COMMITMENT: Super Bowl is
beyond the ropes and it’s completely the user’s
responsibility to play safely and, if necessary,
rescue yourself. It’s big-mountain terrain with a
Rocky Mountain snowpack, so there is definite
avalanche danger at all times. Super Bowl is a
classic example of “Just because it has tracks,
doesn’t mean it’s safe!”
YMIR PEAK
LOCATION: Whitewater, Nelson, B.C.
DETAILS: You can’t miss it. Around an hour-and-
a-half skin from the top of the lifts, the
2,400-metre peak offers a 760-vertical-metre
run down to the base area.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: Though most
everyone from Nelson skis this area regularly,
professional ski photographer Matt Scholl
knows the angles better than most. “Visually
it’s a classic line. You can’t go to Whitewater
and not say, ‘Wow, what an epic run’.” There
are lots of challenging options for charging
freeskiers who like cliffs and tight chutes,
but there are also clean lines that tamer
backcountry skiers enjoy. “The top 150 metres
or so are steep,” says Scholl. “Then most
people take a simple exit left into Kuba’s and
ski the bowl down.” The real challenge with
Ymir can be catching it in
photo: STEVE OGLE
perfect conditions.
It’s a face so “any wind blows the snow
right off it and it sees a lot of traffic.” The best recommendation is be among the first
skiers up Ymir after a storm—snow stability
permitting. Then all you have to do is ski
powder all the way to the lodge, sit on the
patio with a beer and admire your tracks.
GEAR: Avalanche beacon, probe, shovel,
skins and touring bindings.
LEVEL OF COMMITMENT: Don’t be fooled
by the traffic, Ymir is pure backcountry.
Though right off the resort, Ymir has no
avalanche control or ski patrol help. Bring
appropriate gear and experience with you.
DELIRIUM DIVE
LOCATION: Sunshine Village, Banff, Alberta
DETAILS: A five-minute hike beyond the access
gate near the Continental Divide Chairlift earns
you a 550-vertical-metre descent down to the
base of Goat’s Eye, where you can hop on the
gondola and do it all again. Daily opening of
the Dive is dependent on avalanche conditions,
visibility, snow coverage and conditions. Four
laps is a good day, but as
photo: RICHARD HALLMAN
many as 10-12 are
possible if you really charge.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: Delirium Dive is
different terrain. While technically within the
resort’s boundary, skiers are expected to treat
it akin to beyond—well beyond. Snow safety
team member Tim Haggerty has been blasting
the Dive (with bombs and skis) since it opened
in 1999. “It was the first terrain of its kind
and it opened people’s eyes to what could be
opened at ski areas.” While there are smooth,
easier lines, there are also large cliff bands
throughout the vast area that are not marked
and could result in serious consequences. “You have to scope lines and treat it like big-mountain
terrain in the backcountry. It’s not
terrain you want to screw around in.” Skiers are
instructed to ski one at a time from safe area
to safe area to avoid hazards from above, like
rockfall, falling skiers or small slides. As a high,
north-facing cirque, The Dive holds wintry snow
right up until the end of Sunshine’s season on
Victoria Day in May.
GEAR: Avalanche beacon and shovel; must
be accompanied by a partner.
LEVEL OF COMMITMENT: Ski patrol
responds to accidents, but skiers are expected
to take extra responsibility and ski with more
caution than in normal “in-bounds” terrain.
Hazards are not marked and there is always
potential for horrible falls.
DE PENCIER
VALLEY
LOCATION: Mount Seymour, Vancouver.
DETAILS: Off the Mystery Peak Chairlift
with no real hiking, you can ski down to
De Pencier Lake and afterwards skin back
up the obvious, mellow drainage. You
earn 300 metres of glades and tree skiing
for your modest efforts.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: Jordan Manley,
local award-winning ski photographer, has
explored the nooks and crannies of this,
his home resort, as much as anyone. “For
me it’s about how you feel remote and
how you are skiing in these big-mountain
hemlock trees.” Skiing down to De Pencier
Lake doesn’t offer a long run, but it does
have some steeper rolls up to 45 degrees.
Jordan suggests the time to ski this area
is the rare time when Vancouver itself
gets snow. “Inevitably, the problem is
the altitude. We get lots of snow, but it
can be pretty coastal. Seymour receives
as much snow as Whistler, but it’s usually
quite a bit heavier.” The obvious allure of
De Pencier is its proximity to the city. If
you are reading this from your Vancouver
office, remember: “It’s a run where you
can get off work, catch the lift and be at
the top in an hour and a half from your
desk.”
GEAR: Avalanche beacon, probe, shovel,
skins and touring bindings.
LEVEL OF COMMITMENT: It may be
near town, but you’re skiing away from
the hill right into the backcountry and
you will have to climb back to civilization
afterward, so self-rescue is a concern—as
is getting lost.
SEVEN STEPS
OF PARADISE
LOCATION: Rogers Pass, B.C.
DETAILS: It’s a major ski tour
up to Young’s Peak via either the
Illecillewaet or Asulkan drainages.
If you can’t find and plan your
route on a map, it’s a good idea
to hire a guide from either Golden
or Revelstoke. You’ll be skinning
up (and then skiing down) roughly
1,200 vertical metres, so your
fitness level is a real concern.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: If you ski
tour at all and haven’t heard of
Greg Hill, do yourself a favour and
check out his blog at greghill.ca or greghill.squarespace.com. Greg
gets more powder skiing in a season
than some helicopter skiing guides
but it’s all under his own power.
Rogers Pass is his backyard, so
needless to say he knows the fabled Seven Steps of Paradise well. “That run
is all about powder skiing. It just keeps going, benching out and then giving
another step.” Clearly visible from the Trans-Canada Highway, this slope has
beckoned skiers for years. While Greg easily gets up and down in a day, mere
photo: PAUL H WRIGHT
mortals will enjoy the trip more if they stay at the welcoming Asulkan Cabin.
As you watch the sun set from this high alpine hut, you may think you’ve
already reached paradise, but the real reward for your climb awaits you the
next morning just out the back door. “There’s nothing like stepping out of
the cabin, climbing 300 metres and then skiing 1,200 metres of wide-open
powder.” All but the most experienced parties should hire a guide for this
epic. As Greg puts it, “The top step is a bit interesting off Young’s Peak. It’s
a steep route-finding crux. And there’s some blue glacier ice at the bottom.” Paradise doesn’t come easy!
GEAR: Skins and touring bindings; avalanche beacon, probe and shovel;
glacier gear; overnight pack.
LEVEL OF COMMITMENT: Backcountry in the true sense of the word.
Crevasses, avalanches and simply the size of it make the Seven Steps by far the
most committing line on this list. Hiring a guide is highly recommended.
MOUNT DECKER
LOCATION: Blackcomb, Whistler, B.C.
DETAILS: From the T-bar atop Blackcomb
Glacier, check for closed signs and traverse
beyond the ropes to climb up the East Col
on Blackcomb Peak. Descend to and then
skin up the Decker Glacier and the peak
itself. It’s roughly an hour-and-a-half from
the resort to the top, and you can ski right
back to the resort.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: Because of its
proximity to Blackcomb, this backcountry
area in general sees a lot of traffic, however,
Mount Decker itself gets skied less than
you’d think. And that’s why it’s a favourite
with local pro skiers like Dominic Melenson.
There are a few options, but Dom’s favourite
is Decker’s North Face. “The North Face is
sick. It has the Finger Chutes, which offer
four different lines and some spines. The
South Side has wider, longer chutes, and
the West Face has one main chute and a
nice bowl.” Part of the appeal of Decker is
the remote feel of it. “You’re pretty much
guaranteed to get fresh tracks. Not a lot of
people go there. You’re on a big, wide-open
glacier with great views and some impressive
crevasses and blue ice.” For the ambitious
and more experienced, Mount Decker offers
a great backcountry adventure that is
relatively easy to access.
GEAR: Avalanche beacon, probe, shovel,
skins and touring bindings—plus glacier
travel/rescue gear.
LEVEL OF COMMITMENT: Glacier travel
increases the hazard and you’re also away
from the safety of the resort. Parties need to
be versed in avalanche and crevasse rescue
and avoidance.
HONORABLE MENTIONS
For those looking for a more accessible off-piste lap to hone
their skills on, Big White’s Easter Chutes offer steep glades
with lots of smaller cliff drops that may be the ticket. Only a
20-minute lap on the Blackforest Express, skiers get a lot of
powder in a day in this rewarding little area.
If you’re hunting for a true steep-skiing descent near
a lift, head to Castle Mountain and take the mellow ski
tour above the Huckleberry Triple Chair. At the top of the
ridge you’ll find KC’s chute dropping down the north face.
Castle’s website lists it as “Extreme”—we’re not arguing.
Fernie’s Fish Bowl is an off-piste powder bowl
requiring virtually no uphill hiking. A long climbing
traverse will get you to this often deep, but also highly
avalanche-prone gem. In the right conditions it can be
the run of your life. Just make sure it’s not the last. Ask a
mountain guide and knowledgeable locals before you go.
On a clear day the views from the top of Purple Bowl,
above Lake Louise’s Larch chairlift, are enough to make the
20-minute bootpack worthwhile. If avalanche conditions
permit, the wide-open bowl below your feet is the icing on
the cake. If it’s too dangerous, you can drop back into the
Elevator Shaft, which is controlled by ski patrol.
Atop Marmot Basin’s Knob chairlift is a 30-minute
hike that rewards the dedicated with a choice of two true
alpine powder runs. Peak Run and Suzie’s both see little
traffic because of the hike and offer wide-open alpine
cruising, but still in the safety of the ski hill boundary.
Mount Washington’s Outback is the north-facing
backside of the mountain offering double-diamond
glades with cliffbands and even more snow than the deep
frontside. A short hike from the top lift earns you exciting
double-diamond in-bounds terrain. Perfect for adventure
seekers who aren’t comfortable in the backcountry yet.
As soon as you drop into Panorama’s lift-serviced,
inbounds Taynton Bowl you’d swear you were alone in
the backcountry. The glades here offer cliffbands and
chutes coated in better powder than anywhere else on the
mountain without any hiking or backcountry gear needed.
Revelstoke’s Northbowl started off as backcountry
skiing two seasons ago but is now part of the mountain’s
controlled terrain. A short hike to a peak above The Stoke
chairlift reveals the steep-and-deep bowl options to the
north. Any line you choose returns you to the new Ripper
chairlift, the start of your ride back to do it all again.
The Gils are a backcountry-starter and a five-minute
skate from the gate off Sun Peaks’s Burfi eld chair. This
rolling, treed playground ends in a cat track that leads
you back to the safety of the resort. Uncrowded, desert-dry
powder, a gentle pitch and an easy scoot back to the
resort breeds complacency—but it’s still the backcountry.
Remember: proper gear and training.
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