First Tracks by Iain MacMillan
Big-mountain life
It's just after 10:00 a.m. at the
Sunburst Lodge at Sun Peaks and
the teenage racing throng is lining up for another warm-and-sticky
cinnamon bun
break. With fingers too gooey to text anyone
on their phones, the catsuits discuss
everything from the morning’s coaching to
last night’s shenanigans, unaware how much
earlier bakers down at Bento’s in the village
Day Lodge had to rise to prepare the dough
with butter, brown sugar and a few other
secret ingredients. Each morning, about half-a-dozen pans of this sweet energy are sent up
the mountain to rise and be cooked into
award-winning bakery goods.

Back in December when one of those
-200° arctic fronts settled over parts of
Western Canada and WestJet was offering
some cheap pre-Christmas, post-big-
November-snowstorm flights to skiers, I
headed out to Sun Peaks on a three-day
warmup to winter. Combined with B.C.’s
time difference, a 7:15 morning flight from
Toronto gets you into Calgary and onwards
to Kamloops just as the first batch of Bento’s
cinnamon buns are wooing skiers into the
Sunburst and Day lodges.
Even with the bag collection and
40-minute shuttle to the mountain, you can
still be skiing before lunch. And anyone who’s
flown in that morning need only show his or
her boarding pass for a free lift ticket—in
today’s no-time-for-a-holiday world, that’s
surely material for a Best of Skiing award.
I hadn’t been to Sun Peaks since 2002
and the changes were immediately obvious,
with a nicely filled-in village of hotels, shops
and restaurants—very Colorado-like. In a
resort with so much condo accommodation,
it’s refreshing to see how many eateries with
widely varying fare now exist. Most improved
dining choices?
In case you didn’t read everything written
on the cover this month, aside from a little
event going on in Vancouver and Whistler
in February, this is our 16th annual Best of
Skiing in Canada issue recognizing all sorts
of worthy people, places and things within
Canadian ski country. We long ago recognized
the infallibility of online polling for “winners”
within the ski industry, and were quickly
tired of a handful of ski areas and resorts
holding title to everything when we used hard
numbers—and even more tired with bickering
over softer numbers like who has the most
or best snowfall. So that’s why we prefer
to rely on reader anecdotes, observations
of contributors and staff as well as reliable
gossip from friends sent in to the magazine
over the year to create our “awards.”
Our look at the Best of Skiing in Canada
begins on page 22 this issue. And when you’re
skiing this winter, take a few notes and send
us some nominations