Letters from the Alps
Let the Games Begin
It's a question I get asked often, and one
that draws more discussion with readers and
editors alike than questions of snow quality and
slope inclination. (Not that I am an authority.)
Despite my limitations in the downhill
department, most of my friends would readily
agree that I am a considerably more expert
and experienced skier than I am a party
animal. But I have done the research. On
hundreds of dog and pony shows hosted by
fetching blondes from the PR departments
of ski resorts, I've been to pretty much every
drinking and dancing dive in the Alps.
Ironically, my home resort of Verbier in
Switzerland routinely wins 'best nightlife'
kudos from highly respected travel writers
and bon vivants. Personally, I don't see it and
figure they don't get out much. Yet Juergen
Taudien of Switzerland's ruling corporate events
agency M&S Event Services tells me that eight
out of 10 bankers and money-is-no-object
businessmen booking ski holidays insist on
Verbier over Gstaad, St. Moritz or Courchevel
precisely because of its partying attributes.
I've witnessed far wilder scenes in Austria,
and had more luck on the dance floor in Val
d'Isère in France. And the only time anywhere
that I stayed out all night in clubs until six
in the morning, and still made the first lift,
was in sleepy Saas-Fee. So, go figure.
The most excruciatingly boring experience I
ever had was sitting with a group of journalists
at one in the morning drinking bourbon and
watching chalet girls and 30-something threepiece-
suit London business boys strip down to
the buff while drunkenly gyrating in Verbier's
Farm Club, a venue widely described as the
hottest nightclub in the Alps. On another
evening in the same place, with a Danish girl
and fireworks being set off at tables, I seem to
remember having the time of my life.
I'd like to recount more riveting
anecdotes, but most of my nights out are
unmemorable (or unremembered), and
those that are not are embarrassing, illegal
or unprintable. Anyway, it's a mistake to
assume that après ski and evenings out in
the Alps must involve copious consumption
and consummation to be enjoyable.
In sober reflection, I think evaluations
of what a good time a resort puts out
depend entirely upon what one expects—
something which varies wildly depending
upon age, inclination and nationality—as
well as the serendipity of being in the right
place at the right time.
The ski bum’s point of view is aptly
summed up by a buddy of mine: 'When I
go skiing, I look for the steep and deep.
At night I’m looking for flat surfaces and
shallow minds.' Another friend, Marina,
takes a somewhat more profound approach:
'The best ski resort in the world is the one
where 10 inches of powder just fell. The
resort with the best nightlife is one where
it's snowing men.'
Well, girls just wanna have fun. But if
they want it quick, Austria is the place to
go. Nowhere else does the partying begin
so precipitously—and nowhere else are
you so likely to end up doing it in your
ski boots. Yes, they literally dance on the
tables in ski boots, something I have never
seen anywhere else in Europe.
The instant the lifts close, beer drinking
begins. In St. Anton, skiers don't even
wait until they get off the mountain. The
Krazy Kanguruh, the Moosewirt and the
Griabli are all throbbing up on the pistes
from 4:00 p.m. until darkness descends,
and skiers slide home lubricated for the
evening ahead.
You may never have heard of Ischgl, a tiny
Tirolean village with 200 km of pistes and more
high-speed lifts than anywhere in Europe. But
this resort has, in my opinion, the most energy,
with the youngest and rowdiest clientele in the
Alps. It's the only ski resort I've been to with
lap dancing, and is an outpost of the Pacha
club chain famous in Ibiza and London.
Après ski is considerably more civilized
and dolce vita in Italy, notably in Cortina
d'Ampezzo where one showers and sheds the
ski boots before parading down the Corso in
the ritual passeggiata—eyeing up the furs
and inviting a casual acquaintance into one
of the superbly stocked wine bars.
Courmayeur, on the Italian side of Mont
Blanc, has the most congenial après ski
imaginable: bars like the American or the
Roma with huge comfy sofas, cocktails
instead of pitchers of beer, and both the
space and the silence for real conversation.
Après ski in France is, by comparison,
lacking in any defining national ethos. There
are bars but the animal enthusiasm and raw
energy of Austrian après ski is missing, to
the relief of many I should add.
In Chamonix, skiers who have made serious
descents gather at dusk with their guide for
quiet beers, pacing themselves for a good
meal and wilder revels later at the renowned
Choucas Bar or the Office, as depraved a venue
as any hardcore partier could wish for.
Courchevel, with its endless miles of
motorway skiing, offers cabaret acts from
Paris at Les Caves and chateau-themed
salon and library bars at Piggy's. But I get
the feeling most people are there to be seen
rather than to have a good time. And the
prices are astronomical.
Switzerland mixes the Germanic beer-blast
culture with more languid Gallic wine sipping,
according to whether resorts are in German-
or French-speaking cantons. Nowhere in the
world can come close to St. Moritz for true
sophistication and range of things to do:
from cocktails at the Cresta Club sled run to
après-ski pastries at Hanselmann’s to swigging
champagne while watching polo on ice.
My favourite bar in all the Alps is Popcorn
in Saas-Fee, a snowboard centre with a
welcoming crowd and no pretense or glitz.
Of course you can have a good night out
anywhere, even in Canada. But in Europe you’ll
certainly find more variety, weird new drinks
and dances, and the pleasure of conversing
with policemen in a foreign language.