Letters from the Alps
No fly zone for heli-skiers?
Recent headline news in my local newspaper read:
Swiss government is considering banning helicopter
skiing across the nation. It wasn’t the first time such a measure was officially considered. Back in 2000 a
group of “ecolos,” as environmentalists are dubbed in
French, led by an organization called Pro Natura and
backed by the WWF, proposed the same ban. But in
the end, the Swiss federal authorities decided to vote
for the status quo.
Heli-skiing in Canada is different from heliskiing
in the Alps. As an indication of how little
the subject is understood here in Switzerland,
the French language newspaper Le Nouvelliste
flatly declared that “Switzerland is the last
country in Europe to allow helicopter skiing.”
Duh. It’s true that the sport is completely
banned in France. But Austria offers lifts to
the Orgelscharte and Mehlsack mountains,
Sweden advertises midnight sun heli-skiing at
Riksgransen and even the low-lying mountains
of Slovenia are alive with the chop of rotors.
Italy also has helicopter terrain, especially in
Valgrisenche and the Monta Rosa region around
Alagna—in my experience the least expensive
and most rewarding of all areas in the Alps.
Switzerland has 42 legally designated
landing zones in the mountains, 19 of them
right here in the canton of Valais, which is
why the locals are so concerned. Choppers
are only allowed to land at one of these
specifi c “altiports.” They cannot pick up and
deposit skiers for multiple runs, which means
heli-skiing is mostly a one-bang-for-yourbucks
deal. Almost all of these landing zones
are easily accessible by ski tourers, which
sometimes means considerable traffi c when
there’s only one way down.
In Canada, a single heli-skiing concession
from the B.C. government—such as Mike
Wiegele in the Monashee and Cariboo
ranges—is larger than all the lift-served
skiing terrain in Switzerland and skiers are in
true wilderness. The chopper can drop them
anywhere, and pick them up mid-slope when
powder turns to crust.
A few winters ago, for example, I was skiing
with two friends in an off-piste couloir when
one fell and broke his shoulder. One phone call
and within 20 minutes he was jabbed with
morphine and winched up before my eyes, not
having moved an inch from where he fell. Such
rescues are a matter of daily routine in Swiss
resorts.
But these rescue skills and services are under
attack. Pro Natura and the WWF are pressuring
the Swiss government to ban not only the selfindulgent
sport of heli-skiing, but all fl ights
to any of the 42 currently legal landing zones
at high altitude. This would mean an end to
provisioning fl ights—which account for three
times as many fl ights as skiers do—to skitouring
huts operated by the Swiss Alpine Club.
And, according to Jo Pouget of Air Glaciers, one
of the biggest helicopter companies, it would
also damage the rescue services. He argues
that it’s precisely by fl ying heli-skiers that
pilots hone their mountain skills, and also that
without the income from heli-skiing excursions
many pilots would turn to other occupations.
The economic argument carries a lot of
weight in Switzerland, where winter tourism
is already struggling. Swiss mountain guides
claim that heli-skiing accounts for a third of
their income. Swiss resorts advertise the heliskiing
option as an extra simply not available
in France. But the environmental lobby is
adamant that fl ora and fauna count more than
francs.
Switzerland’s Green Party was the fi rst in
Europe to win parliamentary seats back in
1979. And a recent poll shows that a majority
of Swiss would like to see the Greens given one
of the nation’s seven seats on the governing
federal council. But pro-helicopter interests
have not yet surrendered.
Noting increasing opposition to long-haul
international fl ights because of high-altitude
pollution, one mountain guide I questioned
said, “If they do ban heli-skiing here, that will
just mean thousands of people fl ying to British
Columbia to ski there—and how good will that
be for the global environment?”
Illustration by Conny Schwindel