BEST OF SKIING IN CANADA
It's time again, another
year and another
annual insiders' look
at what makes
Canadian skiing so
distinguished.
These pages aren't
filled with facts and
stats you'll find in
brochures and
websites, but the
praise and amusement
that comes from
accurate gossip,
anonymous hearsay
and cameras that
happened to be in
the right place at the
right time.
Most vertical/$ ratio*:
Yeah, yeah, we've heard it before: length isn't
everything, it's how you use it. But even if it's a
little raw, it's still fun to size up the competition.
When you lay down your hard-earned cash at the
ticket counter, you want to convince yourself
you're getting the best bang for your buck. So
here's our tally of most vertical for your dollar:
1. Whistler-Blackcomb: 23.3metres/$ (1,609m; $69)
2. Kicking Horse: 22.1m/$ (1,260m; $57)
3. Panorama: 20.7m/$ (1,220m; $59)
4. Red Mountain: 18.5m/$ (887m; $48)
5. Castle Mountain: 18m/$ (863m; $48)
6. Sunshine: 17m/$ (1,070m; $62.62)
7. Marmot Basin: 16.6m/$ (914m; $55.14)
8. Lake Louise: 16.5m/$ (991m; $60)
9. Powder King: 16m/$ (640m; $40)
10. Nakiska: 16m/$ (735m; $46)
*Prices based on a regularly priced adult single-day lift ticket on a
weekend in mid-January.
Best retro lift system:
For those
old-timers who swear that the laid-back vibe
of Whitewater feels a lot like Whistler did in
its early years, there may be some truth to
their claim: before Whitewater's Silver King
Chair showed up in the Kootenays in 1993,
it served two decades as Whistler's Green Chair.
Whitewater's other chair, the Summit, was also
bought second-hand--way back in 1975. Kudos
to Ross White, Outside Operations Manager, for
keeping the old gals running.
Best backcountry brain surgery:
Physicians,
and needlepoint aficionados, Sean
Staniforth and Kate Milhausen
successfully installed Powder 7.1,
the latest skiing software
guaranteed to turn novices into
rippin' backcountry fun-hogs.
Said patient Karen X afterward,
"No backcountry extra-billing
issues here."
Best aerial view of the Monashee Mountains:
Available any
time you've launched off any of the big-air ramps
at Silver Star's new airstyle park.
Best on-mountain sushi:
An eclectic treat awaits sushi-lovers
in the mid-mountain yurt at Kicking
Horse Mountain Resort. At 1,720 metres
above sea level, Chef Chiaki
Kitano serves up
superb sushi
to discerning
skiers who relish
the change
from burgers
and hot dogs.
O Canada!
Best reason to move your family to Penticton:
Apex offers one of the cheapest kids' learn-to-ski programs around. Full-day
lessons and lift tickets for eight consecutive Saturdays is $175--that's $3.60
an hour--killer deal!
Best lift system in Ontario:
Pearson International Airport.
There may be more skiers in Upper Canada than any other province but they
do like to regularly get out of town. Everyone knows, all those non-stop
flights from YYZ to Tremblant, Quebec City, Calgary, Kelowna, Vancouver,
Denver, Munich and so on aren't for business people, they're for skiers!
Best, and only, place to ski and golf the same day:
And we're not talking summer skiing. Mount Washington on Vancouver
Island is so confident about the idea, it was cooking up an interchangeable
golf greens fees and ski lift ticket idea with tour operator Skican.
Best early-season snow:
Nova Scotia. Forget Martock and
Wentworth, Haligonians were offered knee-deep pow (well, Maritime pow)
right on Citadel Hill in the autumn. We haven't heard any talk of chairlift.
Best new lifts:
Was there ever a more anticipated lift than the
Cliff Chair at Big White? It's been years since the Cliff Platter
was taken away by an aggressive avi patroller bringing down cornices. The
only question is, "Why did the replacement take so long?" Just part of the
$130 million spent by Big White this year in infrastructure and
accommodation, the Cliff Chair has allowed the area boundaries to be
expanded and include East Peak. If you've got the guts to jump some of
these cliff bands, you'll be right at home. Also keeping double-diamond and
backcountry enthusiasts happy, Mount Washington's
Boomerang Chair opens another 162 hectares of new terrain this
winter. The over-and-back unique lift for Canada loads in both directions and
offers a tasty 400 vertical metres on the previously backcountry backside.
Best increase in lift capacity: Sun Peaks' Mount Morrisey
doubled up with chairs to make any waiting a sunny thing of the past.
Best place to take your nordic skiing significant
other: Should the love of your life favour skinny skiing on immaculately
groomed cross-country tracks, while you prefer to plow the pow, then you
can't beat Silver Star. It's the only Canadian resort to host a World Cupsanctioned
cross-country race.
Best chance to heli-ski for free: Simple! Just win the
Powder 8 qualifiers....
Best leg burner (more like ultimate leg burner): Peak to
Creek at Whistler. Although Freddy's Nightmare at Sun Peaks rivals the
Peak to Creek, it's a mere 915-metre run versus the 1,525 on Whistler.
towers going in yet.
Best
skierized
land yachts:
Everyone knows
Saskatchewan
skiers are the best
road-trippers, but it's
really the vehicles
that came first. And nothing says "Kimberley or Bust" better than a 1985
Crown Victoria or Eldorado sagging at the back end with a full ski rack,
seven sets of rear-entry boots inside--and Sask plates.
Best gear: Private club money in Ontario can't buy Alberta's or B.C.'s
mountains but it can buy the best equipment, clothing and bottle of wine in
the designer picnic basket. If you want a dose of non-reality, find a member
to sign you in for a guest day pass at Osler Bluff Ski Club in Collingwood
and marvel at the sliding Sporting Life catwalk on display....
Best winning the battle with Parks Canada:
Jasper's Marmot Basin. The three-year Eagle Ridge expansion is now
complete, boosting the total terrain to 678 hectares, from the pre-existing
405 hectares of three years ago. You'll discover new runs and some more
glade skiing off the new lift. Long branded a family-only resort, this latest
expansion has helped Marmot diversify its skier base. Much of the new
terrain caters to the double-black-diamond crowd, but the wee ones won't
feel neglected with this year's new Magic Carpet and platter lift. Also new
is the million dollar renovation to Marmot's ski rental/repair shop. And next
year snowmaking!
Best exposure: Nothing like
a red-carpet invite to buy time with
Warren Miller et al--and get
some attention on Alberta in
last fall's film Impact.
Best
Community:
Ski Hills
Mount Cain,
Woss, B.C.
If skiing's soul is what you're after, you
might just find it at Mount Cain, right.
Located on the north end of Vancouver
Island (about an hour and a half north
of Campbell River), Cain is like the ski
hill that time forgot--picture a couple
of old T-bars, a handful of rustic
chalets (bring your own sheets,
please) and almost 500 vertical metres
of snorkel-deep powder. Cain's secret
to keeping it deep? It closes up shop
Tuesday to Friday, giving skiers all the
more reason to get up early Saturday
morning. 888/668-6622;
www.mountcain.com
Powder Springs Resort,
Revelstoke,
B.C.
In an area known for some of the best bigmountain
heli-skiing on the planet, how do you get
people psyched to come out and support the local
hill? Easy, drop the price of a season's pass to
$150. That's right, for the price of two days' skiing
at Whistler, Revelstokians get to run laps 'round
their 335-metre playground all season long.
Perhaps that's why 1,500 residents (out of a total
population of just over 8,000) forked over the cash
last season. Or maybe it was the 660 cm of snow
that piles up on them every winter. Life is hard.
800/991-4455; www.catpowder.com
Hidden Valley,
Medicine Hat,
Alberta
Located near Alberta's eastern border (that's right,
folks, we're just about in Saskatchewan here),
Hidden Valley puts paid to the myth that there's no
good skiing in the Prairies. Throw a quad chair, a
T-bar and two handle tows onto 200 vertical
metres of terrain, add an annual snowfall of 200
cm and a summit elevation of 1,400 metres, and
suddenly the nickname "Snoasis of the Prairie"
starts to make a whole lot of sense. It may not
be in the same league as western Alberta's
mountains, but then again, it's not in the same
postal code either. 403/893-3961;
www.skihiddenvalley.net
Kamiskotia Snow Resort,
Timmins,
Ontario
There aren't many ski hills in Ontario
that can boast a season that runs from mid-
November to mid-April. But thanks to 340 cm of
annual snowfall and a northern latitude that's
conducive to keeping that snow on the slopes
(okay, we'll say it--it's cold!), Kamiskotia Snow
Resort can lay claim to one of the longest ski
seasons in the province. That means folks who
live in nearby Timmins (only 20 km down the road),
can enjoy their midweek $29 tickets for weeks
after most hills have been taken over by rocks and
grass. Who said the only thing Timmins has going
for it is Shania Twain? 705/268-9057;
www.kamiskotia.com
Mont Edouard,
Anse-Saint-Jean,
Quebec
If you've never heard of Mont Edouard,
you're not the only one. Created by the Quebec
government 15 years ago as an engine to drive the
Saguenay region's depressed economy, "La
Montagne du Fjord," as it's known, is at the mercy
of its remote location: 240 km northeast of Quebec
City. The result? If you're willing to make the trip,
you pretty much get the place to yourself. Did we
mention a vertical drop of 450 metres and an
annual snowfall of 550 cm? Maybe it's time for a
road trip. 418/272-2927; www.montedouard.com
Cape Smokey,
Ingonish Beach,
Nova Scotia
Located in northern Cape Breton,
Cape Smokey boasts the highest vertical in Nova
Scotia (300 metres), the longest run in the
province (2.4 km), a very respectable 381 cm of
annual snowfall and the most breathtaking ocean
view of any ski hill in the country. In fact, if you're
not careful, you might just end up skiing into the
ocean. And Smokey may be 130 km from the
nearest town of any size (Sydney), but area
residents are willing to make the drive--
especially when an early-bird season's pass goes
for a measly $139. 902/285-2760;
www.skicapesmokey.com
Best room with a view:
Slopeside rooms are a dime a dozen at
ski areas nowadays. But how many can offer a bedside or meeting-table
view like the Chateau Lake Louise?
Second best room with a view:
Although Mike Wiegele's
Grizzly Hut was tough competition, Kicking Horse's mid-mountain
"outhouse out here" received unanimous praise as the classiest relief
station in the valley. It's lighted, heated and, curiously, even smells good.
Best comeback: Whistler and the world welcome
back Creekside, site of the original Whistler, as the more
intimate alternative to the high-paced village.
Best scare:
Snowbikes might be
available to demo at Whistler but they're
part of equipment rentals at Marmot Basin.
Note: the $44 a day doesn't include helmet
rental--or insurance.
Best $30,000 room upgrade:
Sunshine Inn is still the only slopeside
accommodation in Banff National Park. And this
year, 30 out of 84 rooms at the lodge have been
renovated at a price tag of $30,000 a room.
Best place to get
away from the
terrain park:
Around
the Burf at Sun Peaks there
are plenty of "100 per cent
natural" rails (i.e. debranched
logs) to practice riding if you're
tired of the commercial jib
scene. Some of the old
windfalls lie neatly above the
snowpack and act as great
rails for those inclined.
Best retro lift system:
For those old-timers who swear that
the laid-back vibe of Whitewater
feels a lot like Whistler did in its early
years, there may be some truth to
their claim: before Whitewater's
Silver King Chair showed up in the
Kootenays in 1993, it served two
decades as Whistler's Green Chair.
Whitewater's other chair, the Summit,
was also bought second-hand--way
back in 1975. Kudos to Ross White,
Outside Operations Manager, for
keeping the old gals running.
Most dazzling views found cat-skiing:
Chatter Creek, B.C. "It's
like being on the highest lift in Canada, without the lift," babbled one of Ski Canada's
senior contributors. You can soak in vistas of the Selkirks and Monashees even
though you're skiing the Rockies.
Most improved grooming:
Fernie's historically sorry grooming rep has
turned over a new set of corduroys in previously untouched areas like Siberia Bowl,
North Ridge and even Cedar Bowl.
Best resort scenery:
Lake Louise--even if you never make it into the bowls,
the front side of the most scenic resort in North America affords spectacular vistas
including Lake Louise, Victoria Glacier and Temple Mountain.
Best new terrain park:
Big White's $2.5 million TELUS Park has it all:
pipes, a rail garden, skier/boardercross course, an Olympic-size superpipe, an onmountain
lodge, dedicated chairlift, night-lighting.... Even though it's one of the best
training facilities for freeskiing and snowboarding in North America, it's best not to
describe it that way, it sounds too serious.
Best new expert terrain:
Flute Bowl at Whistler ranks as a truly
exceptional ski experience. Alpine and gladed terrain await. So what if you have to
hike, on a clear day it's magic. And Flute is only part of the 445 hectares of new terrain
added to the map this season.
Best bootfitters:
Okay, so we didn't run a
Mr. Bootfitter Canada Pageant, but if we had, Donny Dion
and Brian Campbell of Top Shelf Snowsports at Fernie's
Griz Inn would be prancing around with the finalists--even
without a swimsuit competition. Warning: whether
you buy your boots at Top Shelf or just have them
tweak your annoying existing ones, the void left
when you have no foot problems to complain
about may be significant.
Run names most likely
to keep experts away:
Bambi (Fernie)
Bunny Hop (Marmot Basin)
Sissy Shuss (Mont Tremblant)
Ski Wee (Grouse Mountain)
Giggly Gully (Fernie)
Run names most likely
to keep beginners away:
Turn or Burn (Lake Louise)
The Cliff (Big White and Red Mountain)
Concussion (Fernie)
Satan's Run (Devil's Elbow, Ontario)
Kamikaze (Stoneham, Quebec)
Best chance to get your mug on TV:
Winterstart at Lake Louise in late November-early
December each year has become a lesson to the world
on how to properly run a World Cup.
Best new intermediate
terrain:
Big White's first stage
of the Gem Lake expansion includes
six new intermediate runs and
almost 80 hectares of blue runs,
which should please the masses.
Best place to learn
from the pros:
Silver Star's new Ski Academy
is designed for instructors and
other ski professionals who
want to take both their skiing
and their job seriously.
Best events for different reasons:
The TELUS World Ski & Snowboard Festival
defines the scene in Whistler each April.
The Sun Peaks Icewine Festival in January
refines the scene. Both are unique--and
worlds apart.
Best place to pray for powder--
and ski it, too:
On-hill church services
take place at ski areas across Canada.
We like the alpine chapel at Sun Peaks.
And if you think it's a romantic place to get
married, you're right!
Best snow record in the Rockies:
Sunshine gets more snow than any other Alberta
resort, up to a fluffy eight metres a year. It also has
one of the longest seasons: mid-November through
May. With Mount Assiniboine often in sight, Sunshine
rivals Lake Louise for best views from a resort.